We represent strongly when it comes to burgers, beer and Ethiopian food, but D.C. has long struggled to develop into a deli town.

So Jon Rossler has taken to the streets, delivering amply packed corned beef and pastrami sandwiches, Reubens and knishes from his new truck, Corned Beef King.

Rossler slowly cures, then bakes his corned beef--the core of his menu--into a richly salted, nearly buttery meat that can stand on its own. But the meat is even better with spicy mustard, the subtle tang of sauerkraut or a spread of celery-seed-seasoned coleslaw.

The Reuben ($10) is a classic, layering warm sauerkraut, Swiss cheese and Provolone onto grilled rye. But Rossler recommends the Milly Ann ($10), a hearty mound of corned beef with coleslaw, a cloak of melted Provolone and Russian dressing. We recommend substituting the truck's "Angry" sauce, creamy Russian dressing spiked with a heavy dose of pungent horseradish.

Rossler's deli standbys don't end there: He serves Dr. Brown's sodas ($1.75) and warm, doughy meat knishes ($2.50).

Corned Beef King, in Maryland; 571-505-4125 or cornedbeefking.com